Glass half full day

We knew that very wet weather was due to come in from the west today, but it was forecast to get wet from about 2-3pm. So it was initially looking like a wash out, and that the weather had come in early as I had to put the wipers on this morning, and the road got wetter and wetter the closer we got to Langdale....

Ben on Annie's Song

But I was reminded today that its always worth remaining optimistic as it was almost dry in Langdale, and seeing climbers on Raven Crag gave us the incentive to head to White Crag and see what happened.

Good time to finish

We had a great few hours climbing Bee-Line (HS), Annie's Song (VS+) and I Crashed a Vulcan Bomber (VS+) . At times it drizzled but the rain held off until we had finished the 3rd route. It was satisfying getting back to the car before the heavens opened, but I did feel sorry for the 2 climbers we spotted on the traverse pitch of Pluto getting drenched as we left.

Hot hot hot (rock)

A great weekends climbing was had by me and Ben. Due to the dry sunny and settled weather we headed to Eagle Crag in Patterdale on Saturday to climb the classic 150m Eagle Front, a route of great notoriety that they say should only be considered during a dry period.

Eagle Crag further back centre (kind of)

Nearly there

I made a minor (nearly major) gaff by forgetting my water bottle and only discovering this after walking up hill for 30 minutes. Annoyed with myself for not checking my bag after packing it the night before I had to improvise and use a waterproof rucksack liner to gather water from the stream!! The route was fun, and we were lucky with the weather (not too crazy hot ).

Old pegs (and flower) on the nail ledge belay

Ben following the brilliant 7th pitch

Sunday saw another early start and red hot weather as we walked in to Dow Crag at 8.30am (I think). Wow was it hot, glad I had water this time. We were early (ish) but not the first there. We avoided the crowds and headed to Easter Gully (the amphitheatre) and climbed Great Central Route a 'brilliant' HVS. It packed a lot in, with a strenuous 5b (I think) crack/off width and amazing top pitch. I love the guidebook description 'A climb of great character up the imposing pillar......'. It was so hot that after this route all we could do is cool off in the lake before ice-creams in Coniston!!

Classic Rock - Red Pencil Direct

Well maybe its a bit sad, but between being ill (man flu) and work I persuaded Ben to come and find the above classic rock route on Pen y Ghent in the Yorkshire Dales.

15-20 minute walk in Ben....!

Now where is the stable rock!?

What can I say.... well the actual climbing was very mediocre, and probably wouldn't get any stars if elsewhere, but.... walking to the top of Pen y Ghent was scenic while Ben moaned about being unprepared (I'd told him the walk in was 15-20 mins - well I didn't have a guide book... when it took about 45 + minutes).... exploring to find the crag (the emailed and printed single page was quite vague).. and finally climbing a route next to a previous big rock fall, and finding quite a few bit loose rocks on the actual route all led to a fun few hours on this glorious day.

Allegedly the best route of the crag (note big rock fall scar on right!)

Highland adventure....

Well what an interesting week or so.... a trip up to the Highlands in Scotland to see Loz and Gemma, have a 'wee' job interview (eek) and look around the area so see if it could be home for a while.

The Black Isle

Gairloch

Loz did a top job in acting as tour guide to his local patch showing me the highlights of the Black Isle and some amazing surrounding areas.

McRigolos (Moy Rock)

Warming up on the pebbles!

He was also kind enough to take me to Moy Rock, and amazing conglomerate sport climbing crag that I will always now think of as McRigolos!! Really fun climbing here, before heading up a glen to look at some schist slab climbing above a deep river pool far below. I think it was called Scatwell River Slabs!?!?!

Now where are the clean routes....?!

Pic says it all!

The routes were very dirty, Loz assured me that they had been cleaned in 2005 or similar and were in great condition..... We abseiled in, did a bit of cleaning and ultimately top roped a route out which felt about E2 5c ish (very little gear - it might have been a hybrid route following the cleanest line on the schist). We didn't have the guidebook so no idea. But it was a fun climb, and the place is just scenically stunning.

Actually a great ?hybrid route

 Technical climbing between minimal features

So now just need to put my thinking cap on......

?last hurrah (snow).....

After not doing the Dyfi Enduro (again) I ended up on trip to Scotland to hunt down some snow and hook up with Des and Cath for a wee tour.

The top of the Fiacaill Ridge

Skiers looking for steeps!

Cath and Des just before the Loch

A long after work drive on Friday night saw me sleeping in the car at the Drumochter Pass watching the stars at midnight through the car glass roof (beautiful)!

Lunch at the loch 

Diagonal Gully behind 

Zoom shot of a busy steep gully!

Another early start on the Saturday (- 1C in the car!) and I picked up Des and Cath from the Aviemore YHA at 8.30am. Given the great forecast, and that it was the Saturday of a bank holiday weekend I was worried that we wouldn't get parked at the ski centre..... lets just say there were plenty of spaces still at 9am (sorry guys!)!

Zoom shots of skiers in Castlegates gully (Shelterstone) 

We skinned up the Fiacaill ridge to point 1141m, and dropped down to Loch Avon (A'an) via Allt Coire Domhain next to Hell's Lum on some very interesting deep heavy snow that was pin wheeling balls of about .5-1m in diameter from our ski tracks !!!

Tourers approaching the summit of Ben Macdui 

Things were much calmer at the Loch and we had lunch and watched loads of people 'hitting' the steeper gullies (Diagonal and Gastlegates). There were loads of skiers out, but who can blame them on a day like this. What was surprising were the large amount of skiers who were just wandering around carrying ski's (I guess no skins) over the plateau seeking steeper lines to drop.

Heading up Beinn Mheadhoin 

Okay back to business we skinned up towards Loch Etchachan and then on to Beinn Mheadhoin (a munro I've wanted to visit for a while). It was bitter cold on the top, the weather slightly deteriorating.

But the 2km descent to the outlet of Loch A'an was fantastic with some of the best snow of the day (I whooped!). Obviously all over too quickly, and after fording the river we started the final big skin to get us back up to Cairngorm and a final drop down through the ski area. A bit of a killer climb, but I think Des worked out afterwards that the route was about 10 miles, with 1400m ascent!

Glad you wore the red trousers Des (love this shot!)

Wet foot Des?

back at the loch (outlet this time)

With tired legs we made the col, and dropped down through the freshly piste bashed slopes and made it within about 100m of the car before having to ditch the ski's. Another fantastic Scottish ski day, man this place delivers.

back up to the saddle

last shot of the day of other skiers (just like the shot!).

Tough times on the grit...

I was down in the Peak District for the weekend to visit family and do a couple of errands, but managed to squeeze in a great half days climbing with Toby on the gritstone.

A VS (can't remember the name)

The weather was okay, and I mean just okay.... it drizzled a little and was quite cold. We started at Gardoms Edge, which is always quiet (people wise), but alas a wee bit green and neglected.

Toby skating (feet) on the polish

We did 3 great routes which were all entertaining, finishing here by getting thrashed on a hard - HVS (well maybe it wasn't that hard but we both struggled). After this battle we needed salvation so tramped across the moor to Birchen Edge to climb 3 more, much cleaner (but very polished) routes. A successful trip back to the homeland....

Guilty pleasures (rock!)!

I had many plans for this weekend including skiing (fresh snow in Scotland), visiting family, french homework, climbing and contacting old friends....

Theres a dry bit of rock!!! Are you sure?

George on an E1 (not sure what!)

In reality I climbed all weekend, at Wallowbarrow on Saturday, which was very damp on arrival, but did eventually dry.

And on Sunday I had a really fun day trip to the Peak District to climb with Shaw, Judith and Ben.

Stanage (North)

Judith on the grit

So I didn't totally achieve what I planned to do, but what a great weekend, and quite diverse climbing  from Lake district volcanic, to Derbyshire Gritstone :-)

Beautiful Stanage :-) 

Me battling something!