The John Muir Trail Part 1 - Yosemite to Tuolumne

Just back from 3 weeks in California hiking on the John Muir Trail. The John Muir Trail (JMT), is one of the most famous, dramatic and iconic mountain walks in the world and I've wanted to hike it for over 10 years, ever since I first went to Yosemite climbing in 1999.

The trail starts in Yosemite Valley in the Sierra Mountains, heading South for 220 miles and finishes on Mt Whitney (14,505ft/4,421m) the highest summit in the contiguous United States. The average elevation is just over 3000m and its hot in the day, and can be cold at night. Black bears and other interesting wildlife like Coyote, Rattlesnakes should be expected on the trail (I have a poor track record with bears).

The 'normal' village store

Abi proud with her 15kg pack (looks tiny!) after getting our permits

At our pace (enjoying it) its about 21 days hiking (the record is just under 4 days - fully supported {just carrying water and running it}...but that's silly!!). So when you factor in a rest day or two, and the logistics of getting to and from the trail (no mean feat in the land of poor public transport because everyone owns an SUV), buying food and posting ahead food drops you need 4 weeks. We went with Janet and Rob, who had 4 weeks off work, but I could only get 3 weeks. Apologies in advance if I occasionally slip into American slang/drawl, but its so darn tooting easy....

wildlife is everywhere, can you spot the deer just off the road in a meadow

The Royal Arches on the left (1000ft cliff), and Half Dome dominating the view centre back (a 2000ft granite wall)

 We arrived in Yosemite after a couple of crazy days in 100F heat sorting out our logistics in the strange town of Merced (big town but couldn't find the centre - felt like a hot outdoor mall). Yosemite is an amazing place and I was 'stoked' about everyone seeing the valley, but its a real dichotomy, on one hand its an amazing unrivalled granite mountain landscape (?playground) with mile high walls towering over the valley, a mega for climbers, and I guess anyone who appreciates spectacular landscapes, but also its very theme-park-esque, with 4 million visitors a year and 90+% of those not going more than 100m from their vehicle or the themed burger/pizza joint.

We were all still shocked by the heat as we picked up our permits (no permit no hike - booked 6 months in advance) and weighed our packs on the scales outside the ranger office (that was also a shock - heavy was the theme) we headed to the backpackers camp ground - exciting, here at last after 6-8 months planning).

Camping is easy in the valley (picnic tables). But Abi didn't like the pit toilets full of hungry fly swarms!

Next day we took the shuttle bus up to Glacier Point (7,214ft - sorry its all feet here) our hike start point. From here you get unreal views of the valley and in particular Half Dome (Climbed an amazing 5.7 R route called Snake Dike on this dome in 2000, so brought back happy memories).

Starting point (Glacier Point), startling views of Half Dome (looks steep from here!)

Usually you start the JMT in the valley, but we couldn't get a permit for the original start, I think this was a blessing really, a couple more miles to walk on day 1, but starting much higher up would be easier to get used to the heat and altitude. It was great to get going, we were all excited as we slowly eased into our first day of hiking on this panorama trail carrying our heavy packs (ranging from 15-20kg with 6 days of food). The first proper night on the trail was at the brilliant Little Yosemite Valley, a suggested campsite with bear lockers and pit toilets. It was sociable, with other hikers around. We all shared a big fire, chatted and watched the stars - bliss. Originally (naively), we had planned to get much further up the trail on day 1, but when we met a ranger higher up the next day he informed us that the higher camp had been up all night trying to keep a bear and cub out of camp. We were very glad we stopped when we did.

Great trail, amazing lichens (vivid green)

Chilling at the campfire... sharing tales and toasting marshmellows

Day 2 blew our socks off, a short spectacular day as we headed away from the crowds, higher, onward to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. This is a manned 'camp' with tented cabins for paying guests {not us}, all supplies and luggage hauled in by cowboys/girls with their mule trains (for the lucky few). Started to feel the altitude here.

Rob checking out the views. A typical meadow/mountain  scene from the first 3 days (stunning or what)

Great trails head through the open meadows

Love this shot. Abi towering over the mountain...

 Day 3 - Cold morning, just below 0C, but after warming up the day just got better and better as we headed through forest and then over Cathedral Pass (9,700ft), with views of Cathedral Peak/Echo Peak and other classic mountains (climbs) in the area. Getting to Tuolumne (pronounced 'Too-arll-oh-mee') was great, because I knew that we would hit a road, shop and best of all a tented burger joint (all dismantled in winter when the snows come). Gorged on a cheese burger and fries, and slept well at the backpackers camp ground. I felt happier that we had completed a few days, it all seemed to be going well and no bears so far but would it last........?

Having a break on Cathedral Pass. Big views.

Burger please......no make it two....